The Value of Cut or Overall Shape and Proportions of A Diamond

Cut determines the overall shape of the diamond and how many facets or polished sides it has; cut also affects how well a diamond sparkles. Cut is just as important as the other factors (the 4 C’s of Diamond Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat weight) in determining the value of a diamond. How a diamond is cut from the rough found in nature, how it is fashioned and polished, dictates how light moves through the stone to make it sparkle, flash and gleam – that amazing, legendary combination of scintillation, brilliance and fire. Cut also determines the final weight of the stone, and it can influence the diamond’s clarity grade, too.

The Standard Round Brilliant or Full Cut Diamond

At its most basic, cut means the overall shape of the stone once it has been manufactured from its rough natural form to its finished form. The standard round brilliant or full cut is the most common style cut. In this instance, the gem stone is generally round in outline when viewed face up and has 57 facets (58 if there is also a culet at the bottom.) On any brilliant cut, each facet is either triangle-shaped or kite-shaped. The full cut or standard round brilliant is the most popular traditional engagement ring diamond style.

Fancy Cuts and Combinations: Brilliant, Emerald, Baguette and Fancy Shape Diamonds and More

Other shapes than the round brilliant are considered to be “fancy cuts.” These include the traditional emerald, marquise, oval, and pear cuts as well as diamonds cut into unusual or whimsical shapes such as a heart, bird or butterfly outline. These fancy cuts can certainly be used as engagement rings or solitaires depending on your personal preference.

Depending on the overall shape, fancy cuts can be done brilliant cut style (with kite and triangle-shaped facets) or in step cut style. A typical step cut is the emerald cut with a rectangular table and three orderly rows of four sided facets down the sides. Fancy cuts can also be done in a mixed or combination style of emerald and brilliant cuts together.

You may also see diamonds called baguettes used as accents. A baguette is a smaller step cut stone with a rectangular, square or tapered outline.

Branded Cuts and Brand Name Diamonds

As part of their marketing strategy, certain companies have developed specially named or branded cuts. For example, about twenty years ago the Lazare Diamond was introduced and promoted based on the “ideal cut” concept. Right now, Hearts on Fire is being heavily promoted as a premium brand with specially designed and cut proportions. Branding in diamonds seems to be a trend we will see much more of in the near future.

Magic: How Light Moves Through a Diamond

Over centuries people have responded to the purity and seeming magical qualities of diamonds. Each diamond seems to have its own individuality, a singular character or essence. Analytically and scientifically speaking, the life inside this hunk of pure carbon that is a diamond is due to its light handling capability. In other words, this amazing combination of:

• the sparks of color you see, called the “Fire”

• the white light reflected inside and from the surface, the “Brilliance”

• the flashes of light you see when you, the diamond or the light moves, the “Scintillation”

Every stone is unique and each person has their own preferred combination of fire, brilliance and scintillation. That’s how it is possible to “fall in love” with a certain diamond. To truly appreciate the cut of a diamond and the way it handles light, to know which diamond is truly the right one for you, you’ve got to see it in real life, hold it under different types of light, and find the one that speaks to your heart. The diamond of your dreams!

How Cut Can Improve a Diamond and Raise its Value or Price

There are important trade-offs between preserving as much weight as possible when cutting the stone, and enhancing its light handling capability. A skilled cutter maximizes both to get the most possible value from each diamond. A skilled cutter can also sometimes re-cut a stone to enhance its clarity or to enhance its proportions and thus its ability to sparkle. Cut can also deepen the color of some diamonds.

For Best Sparkle, Compare Your Diamond Indoors and In Sunlight

In the diamond industry, there are some recommended proportions such as the “ideal cut” that can help assure a diamond sparkles. But since each stone is unique, there may be a variety of ways to cut it to maximize its sparkle. Do not rely on listed proportions alone – you need to look at the diamond and compare it with others to see how it performs.

Whether you select a diamond with an overall brilliant cut or fancy cut, with an overall round or emerald shape, with an overall brilliant cut or step cut style, be sure to examine the stone and compare it with others. Always look at it under both artificial light and outdoors under sunlight to make sure you like the way it plays with light. This is the only way to distinguish a true favorite between individual stones – this is the only explanation for how certain stones that seem to be equivalent “by the numbers” will outperform the others and catch not only your eye but also your heart. In short, the diamond of your dreams!

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